If you’re going to go ahead and buy that riser anyway, you’ll probably save some $$ by buying just a lighter pair of limbs, but if you buy a complete bow at that lighter weight, then you’ll have something that friends & kids can learn on. Tons of guys hunt with bows in the 40s up to mid 50s, myself included (52# -57#). Either is plenty for hunting and higher would be too high for getting started in most cases. My guess is that 40# limbs will be 43# at your draw and 45# limbs will be 48#ish assuming your draw ends up at 29" or a tad over which would be normal. If it feels ok and you can draw and anchor for a few seconds without a struggle, you will be fine.
Yes, lower weight limbs are better to start with and learn form but the muscles you will use build fast if you shoot regularly and soon you would likely be ditching the light limbs. Once you get hooked, you will have a better idea of what weight, length and brand/style you really want. There are some very nice lower priced options available.
Satori is a good bow but my advice if you want an ILF is go less expensive at first. I would also get something cheaper to start with because its common to have very different view on what is the "right" bow after you get some experience. Its not rocket science, good to be getting informed ahead of time.
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And it’s a lot easier to learn how to hit what you’re looking at without sights if your form isn't a major variable from on shot to the next. I might also suggest that you learn to shoot that recurve with sights first a peep and a pin with weight you can totally dominate, and you'll figure it out real quick whether you’re missing because of a form issue or something else. And the #1 issue for most people getting started is being overbowed. And lest you be offended by the thought of lightweight limbs for learning with, just be aware that a lot of guys who hunt with with bows in the #50+ bracket also own a lighter bow for practicing their form. So no need to drop $350 on your starter set. Because you don’t want to start out with hunting-weight limbs anyway.įWIW, recommending a bow at twice your compound draw length doesn’t make any sense to me HALF of your compound draw WEIGHT seems reasonable, though.īut again, ILF. Then if you wanted something a little more maneuverable for hunting you could shorten it up. And at that rate, the long+long that Phil recommended does sound like a sweet shooter. The one thing that throws me about the Satori (apart from the fact that the riser alone is more than I have ever paid for a stickbow, including a couple of very desirable Customs) is that it’s a VERY heavy riser, but if you’re used to a compound, you’ll probably never notice that. I bought the short one because I have 2 boys and got a screamin’ deal on a classic at a low draw weight. No problems from a tree stand, none on the ground in the northeast and none at home in the Rockies. I’ve done 100% of my hunting with the three 62s. You can definitely go shorter in a hunting bow, but of the six on my rack, they run 52”, 60”, 62”, 62”, 62” and 64”. So if cost is any kind of a concern (or even if it isn’t!!) just be aware that it might be many years before you’re good enough to make a convincing argument that a $150 bow is holding you back any.įWIW, most people shoot better with a longer bow maybe ILF has changed everything the way that deep sidecuts have changed skis, but last I checked, Target bows were often 72”. The first thought I had when I saw this was “ damn! Starting off in the deep end, huh?“Īll of that adjustability is intriguing, but if you have access to someone who can actually put it to good use for you, the primary benefit of ILF is that you’re not locked in with a single manufacturer for limbs.
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